#Edge blending sai painting full#

This control is provided to augment the Tools Window in the case that the window is closed or obscured.ДЄfter the Tool button, the rest of the second row contains controls that configure the current tool. The second row of the Tool Bar starts with a drop-down list where tools can be selected.Д¬licking on the menu opens a vertical list of possible tools.В An alternative way of opening this dropdown menu is to use the Keyboard chord Alt + T There is a corresponding menu command in the View menu. When a selection is active, its bounding rectangle will be highlighted in the rulers, making it easier to measure.В The cursor position is also shown in the rulers making it easier to accurately apply other tools.

The Rulers can help when aligning image elements, making measurements or adjusting an image to a specific size.В The rulers are always set to the current Units of Measurement.В These units are able to be changed via the View menu or the Status Bar. This icon shows or hides rulers along the top and left edges of the image canvas. When hard, do not aggressively compound the lacquer joint - light compounding produces better results.The Pixel Grid is not visible below 200% magnification. A light coat of thinners to the lacquer edge will blend the repair into the existing paintwork. The final coat of lacquer must stay within the area that has been sanded with Scotchbrite or similar abrasive pads,otherwise it will be impossible to compound away the lacquer edge. If the repair must be blended into a part panel, the same requirements as for solid colours must be met.

#Edge blending sai painting full#

Lacquering the full panels is usually a lot easier than trying to blend a large area mid-panel. Do not apply thinners to blend the basecoat edge.ДЄfter leaving the basecoat to dry for 5-10 mins, lacquer can be applied. It may be easier to reduce air pressure for these coats, which will help to minimize a dark, rough edge where the aluminium particles stand up from the panel instead of laying flat. Extend the basecoat over a slightly larger area to loose any colour differences.

Spray two or three coats of colour onto the repaired area until covered. The basecoat colour may be blended into adjacent panels to achieve a perfect colour match. For most brands of basecoat exactly the same blending process as solid colours is used. Metallic colours are unusual in that different shades can be produced from the same batch of paint by varying application methods or conditions, For this reason blending basecoat and clear metallics is almost compulsory to ensure a perfect match. Finally, melt the overspray edge with a very light coat of thinners, so that the edge of the repair can be compounded into the original paintwork without trace. Arcing the spraygun at the edges of each coat helps the paint edge to fade away, rather than a sharper cut-off to the colour. If paint strays on to unsanded paintwork it will always compound back to a visible edge. To blend the colour into surrounding areas apply two or three extra coats, extending the colour coats a few inches further out for each coat.

If lacquer is to be blended away up a rear pillar or suchlike, use a fine grade compound to restore the gloss to the last few inches of the abraded areaДЄpply colour coats to the repair area until covered, preferably using a lower pressure than usual to reduce overspray. Thoroughly flat all areas to be blended or lacquered with ultra-fine abrasive pads (usually grey Scotchbrite), nothing any coarser. If using basecoat and clear, it is usually easier and quicker to lacquer complete panels, or if spraying for example a door, blend and lacquer the panels either side of your repair to completely hide any slight colour difference. This will ideally be a slim rear pillar or narrow section of bodywork, or a moulding or break line further along from the repair. In this case consider what will be the easiest way to 'lose' the edges of your paint repair. Small repairs may not warrant spraying a complete panel.